A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into hard areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to personal choice.

Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to a location which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Troubleshooting:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the very same. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

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My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process once again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes ideal. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.

Piercing.

Beginning to Saw:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool off.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result every time.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to end up.

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