Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale projects, but the choice is down to personal choice.
Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. The table below includes all the info you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most often.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Starting to Saw:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for exclusively that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee a precise result every time.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.
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The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Likewise dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage need to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and duplicate the process again until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but continuous pressure till all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again when sawing is total.
File to complete.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a consistent and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.