A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below consists of all the details you will require to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Installing a blade into a saw:

Repairing:.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Troubleshooting:.

Save this for later on.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Starting to Saw:.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant however gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
File to finish.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to use effectively.

Piercing.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a gentle and constant action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to reveal the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and duplicate the procedure once again till its best. (Failure to protect your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability before you purchase.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a newbie.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *