A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

https://www.cooksongold.com/blog/learn/a-guide-to-sawing-piercing/

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will just take standard size blades as they are offered.

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below includes all the details you will require to select the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.

Repairing:.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is complete.
File to end up.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Save this for later on.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to make sure an exact outcome each time.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Beginning to Saw:.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.

Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

Repairing:.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *