There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase advanced versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for small scale projects, however the option is down to personal preference.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely fine. The table below includes all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Setting up a blade into a saw:
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool down.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is correct and try to relax. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to finish.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise outcome each time.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to move a more complicated design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface area, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes best. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use effectively.
Conserve this for later.
Starting to Saw:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.