Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to effective sawing every time.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough locations.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Another choice you require to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below contains all the info you will need to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate result each time.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).
Conserve this for later.
The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. Nevertheless, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
Starting to Saw:.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of various attachments consisting of drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to maintain a consistent and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use effectively.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to end up.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability before you purchase.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points).