A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into hard locations.

Most of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very fine. The table listed below contains all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely adequate. Ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

Piercing.

Tools for Piercing: There are many various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a beginner.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial range of various attachments consisting of drill bits.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to an area which would otherwise be impossible or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.

Beginning to Saw:.

Repairing:.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you want to move a more intricate design onto metal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will show up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and constant action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.

The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to direct the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again as soon as sawing is total.
Submit to end up.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Save this for later.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is correct. If you dont hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Repairing:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise result every time.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. However, examine the tension of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal combination.

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