When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
There have actually been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. The table below includes all the details you will require to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you buy.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a mild and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a novice.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to use efficiently.
The most important thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge range of various accessories including drill bits.
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The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool off.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Starting to Saw:.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee a precise result each time.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the correct blade size/metal combination.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be tough or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with should face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinctive ping to show the stress is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply undo and repeat the procedure once again till its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will lead to it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).