A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the proper course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.

Sawing

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Fixing:.

Conserve this for later.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a newbie.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Repairing:.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an exact result every time.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage need to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
File to complete.

The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow suggestion used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal if you desire to move a more intricate style onto metal. Then prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also vulnerable to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

Starting to Saw:.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Piercing.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

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