Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below consists of all the info you will require to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly appropriate. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Installing a blade into a saw:
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability before you purchase.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to preserve a stable and gentle action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to utilize successfully.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is totally upright.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a novice.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again when sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated versions which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally great. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Starting to Saw:.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with two points).
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an accurate outcome whenever.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
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