A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Another choice you need to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw piercing is likely to be among the first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing whenever.

Sawing

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and duplicate the procedure once again up until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Repairing:.

Tools for Piercing: There are numerous different methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Save this for later on.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

The drill keeps walking around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.

As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Starting to Saw:.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Why Pierce? When you need access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal combination.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to ensure a precise outcome each time.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to keep a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

Piercing.

Fixing:.

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