A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to individual preference.

There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below consists of all the information you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely adequate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Installing a blade into a saw:

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to an area which would otherwise be hard or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

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Beginning to Saw:.

The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Fixing:.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, indicating you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A strong base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure a precise outcome whenever.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but mild pressure until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to complete.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points).

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to maintain a mild and consistent action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you start to saw).

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and try to relax. Also do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to breakages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Fixing:.

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