Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are held in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale jobs, however the choice is down to personal choice.
There have been some new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the improvement of an easy sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below consists of all the information you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly adequate. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Installing a blade into a saw:
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle need to face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of different attachments including drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.
Starting to Saw:.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Conserve this for later on.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise result whenever.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points).
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool down.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.