A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set style will just take basic size blades as they are sold.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent general function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to personal preference.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough locations.

Sawing

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the very first step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something totally different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although many of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have assembled this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the proper path to effective sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.

Piercing.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from extremely coarse to very fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it fully vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Beginning to Saw:.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably quickly so its recommended to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and enable the tools to cool off.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

The drill keeps moving around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.

When your style is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but continuous pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
Submit to finish.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal mix.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Troubleshooting:.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with two points). If you wish to move a more complex style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the style onto the metal.

Conserve this for later on.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help alleviate the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a mild and steady action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is appropriate. If you dont hear the ping just undo and repeat the process again until its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability before you buy.

Fixing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure a precise outcome whenever.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

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