There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into difficult areas.
Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for small scale projects, however the choice is down to personal preference.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the information you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly adequate. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably quickly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again.
File to complete.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be tough or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinct ping to show the tension is right. If you do not hear the ping just reverse and duplicate the procedure once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right stress will lead to it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to incredibly fine. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the proper blade size/metal mix.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Conserve this for later.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to keep a stable and gentle action.
Once the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Also dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.
Beginning to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to make sure an exact result whenever.