Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is an excellent basic function size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to individual choice.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another choice you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to assist you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. The table listed below contains all the details you will require to choose the right blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine should be completely sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely regular and practise makes best. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal mix.
Starting to Saw:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to keep a gentle and consistent action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
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The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a big range of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely helping to ensure an exact outcome every time.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize successfully.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle ought to face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Tools for Piercing: There are many various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the principle is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical, the most important thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has actually discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and lower with a mild however continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.
Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small dent to assist the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to unwind. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.