Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.
When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design, another choice you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from really coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the details you will need to pick the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine should be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Installing a blade into a saw:
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of various attachments including drill bits.
Conserve this for later.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their suitability prior to you buy.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that function. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to ensure an exact result every time.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
The drill keeps walking around and will not find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to guide the drill. Likewise ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is fully upright.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outdoors in.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and try to keep a steady and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Starting to Saw:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push motion using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a novice.
Once your style is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. Once through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again when sawing is complete.
File to end up.