A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a series of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into challenging locations.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the appropriate course to effective sawing every time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general function size for little scale projects, however the choice is down to personal preference.

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to exceptionally fine. The table listed below includes all the information you will require to pick the proper blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. Guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most typically.

Installing a blade into a saw:

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a novice.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely helping to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to guide the drill. Also guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is fully upright.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Do not be tempted to force the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Repairing:.

Conserve this for later.

Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Get rid of the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber when you have re-traced the design onto the metal.

Beginning to Saw:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge variety of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is pushed down and pulled back up to turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you intend to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous however gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is total.
Submit to finish.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.

Troubleshooting:.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you ought to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to keep a gentle and consistent action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely normal and practise makes best. Inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not secured correctly in the chuck.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

The most essential thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with should face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Push gently versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.

Piercing.

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