There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.
Another choice you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will just take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something totally various and holds limitless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, many find metal a little unstable at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing each time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. Blades are kept in location by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic purpose size for little scale tasks, however the option is down to individual choice.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from really coarse to extremely great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the details you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Likewise dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise prone to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with two points).
Conserve this for later on.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the exact same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a vast array of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a novice.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you intend to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a gentle but constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again.
Submit to complete.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow idea and is used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work firmly helping to guarantee an exact result each time.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, instead of the outside in.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to guide the drill. Also ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.
Beginning to Saw:.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be held in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to direct the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and attempt to keep a steady and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.