A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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When buying your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame allows you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the first step in the improvement of a basic sheet of metal into something totally various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the right course to successful sawing each time.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Sawing

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. The table below contains all the details you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill keeps walking around and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Starting to Saw:.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and permit the tools to cool off.

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire more advanced versions which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most often.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their viability prior to you buy.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.

Piercing.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pushed down and drew back up to rotate the chuck at the suggestion. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and push down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again when sawing is total.
Submit to complete.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to relax. Likewise dont be lured to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw needs to be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a small indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist alleviate the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a gentle and steady action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to ensure an accurate result whenever.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Repairing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion furthest away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are trying to find an unique ping to show the stress is appropriate. If you do not hear the ping simply reverse and repeat the process again until its. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely regular and practise makes best. Examine the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the appropriate blade size/metal mix.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long suggestion. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Fixing:.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a huge series of different accessories consisting of drill bits.

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