There have been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which assists in sawing into challenging locations.
When purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set design will just take standard size blades as they are offered.
Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds limitless possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the principle of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing each time.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are characterized by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table below includes all the information you will require to select the proper blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a standard selection of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to breakages if not secured correctly in the chuck.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too hard for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their viability prior to you buy.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill a suitable hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is gripped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
Get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to end up.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and totally vertical, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Conserve this for later on.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a deal with at the top which is lowered and drew back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to use successfully.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a simple twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push motion using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is ideal for a beginner.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee a precise outcome each time.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes best. However, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are using the appropriate blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are merely directing it so let the blade will do the work.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to keep a consistent and mild action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a little amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and enable the tools to cool off.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Push gently against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).