A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

There have been some new advancements in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a series of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed by means of a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging locations.

Sawing

Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing every time.

Another decision you require to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame allows you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to very great. Blades are identified by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the information you will need to select the appropriate blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Recommended gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Approximately 0.4

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely sufficient. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most typically.

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Installing a blade into a saw:

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

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Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a constant but gentle pressure until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with once again as soon as sawing is complete.
File to finish.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working area is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to assist ease the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your significant line and try to preserve a constant and mild action.
When the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass but with 2 points).

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their viability prior to you purchase.

Fixing:.

Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly rapidly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is created with a pull/push motion utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is perfect for a beginner.

Piercing.

Starting to Saw:.

The drill keeps moving and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Troubleshooting:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we intuitively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also prone to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and allow the tools to cool down.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle ought to face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the second wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A tough base is combined with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an accurate outcome every time.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is completely typical and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the correct blade size/metal mix.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lubricant to relieve the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Tools for Piercing: There are various methods to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most crucial thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new developments in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or challenging to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is proper and try to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments consisting of drill bits.

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