A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

When acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

There have actually been some new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, numerous discover metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing every time.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely great. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a basic guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below contains all the info you will require to choose the proper blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
Up to 0.4

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a fundamental choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, ensure you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Drill bits: The most typical kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most often.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a newbie.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is right and try to unwind. Do not be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely typical and practise makes best. Inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.

The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a small damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is completely upright.

Starting to Saw:.

Conserve this for later on.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to direct the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a mild and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are harder than others so inspect their viability prior to you purchase.

Repairing:.

Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and permit the tools to cool down.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted slightly forward using long, smooth strokes.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the idea. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Tools for Piercing: There are many different ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit tightly, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Fixing:.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to make sure vertical drilling.

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A tough base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to ensure an exact result every time.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste product to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly ensuring the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a continuous however gentle pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
File to end up.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage should face you and the blade secures should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for a distinctive ping to reveal the tension is right. If you dont hear the ping simply undo and repeat the process once again until its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Piercing.

Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

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