Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame enables you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will just take basic size blades as they are sold.
There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy advanced variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into difficult areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is most likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of an easy sheet of metal into something completely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the concept of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the right path to effective sawing every time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to incredibly fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the info you will need to choose the appropriate blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic selection of coarse, medium and fine must be completely sufficient. Nevertheless, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to incredibly great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times till you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down remembering that the blade cuts on the downward motion and just re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a mild and stable action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow tip used in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its suggested to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Defining and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal should be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular if you desire to transfer a more complicated style onto metal. Prior to transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the style onto the metal.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a substantial series of different attachments including drill bits.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you buy.
The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an accurate result every time.
When your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to refer the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has discovered its position. Once in position increase the speed and press down with a constant but gentle pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
When sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
File to end up.
Save this for later.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is completely typical and practise makes ideal. However, inspect the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit completely vertical and upright. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not secured properly in the chuck.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works utilizing a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use successfully.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and try to unwind. Also do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Starting to Saw:.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with ought to face you and the blade clamps must be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the right stress will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outside in.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a newbie.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.