A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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There have been some new advancements in frame style over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more sophisticated variations which produce the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the tension is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever.

Sawing

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Saw piercing is most likely to be among the very first major jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something completely different and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many discover metal a little unstable initially, which is why we have actually created this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing whenever.

When acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style, another decision you need to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from really coarse to very fine. The table listed below includes all the info you will need to pick the right blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a standard choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be perfectly sufficient. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Setting up a blade into a saw:

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.

Fixing:.

Defining and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal needs to be plainly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are comparable to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to move a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as regular. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will show up the pencil marks created when you re-trace. Once you have re-traced the style onto the metal, eliminate the tracing paper and review the pencil lines with a scriber.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing movement. Some jewellers use spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for exclusively that function. A durable base is combined with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can help with a clamp to hold work securely helping to guarantee an accurate result whenever.

Beginning to Saw:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden deal with must face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this weakens the screw thread).
Then push carefully against the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the appropriate drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a continuous but gentle pressure till all the way through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the stress is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, get rid of the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again.
Submit to finish.

The most crucial thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Do not be lured to require the saw, you are merely guiding it so let the blade will do the work.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring packed drill, which works using a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the tip. This needs both hands to use efficiently.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

Troubleshooting:.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow suggestion and is used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.

Why Pierce? When you require access to a location which would otherwise be difficult or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.

Piercing.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw tilted slightly forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.

Piercing an access hole for sawing:.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative versions which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of different attachments including drill bits.

The drill keeps moving and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too hard for that specific kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so inspect their viability prior to you buy.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has a basic twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a beginner.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. However, check the tension of your blade for slackness and make certain you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also vulnerable to breakages if not protected properly in the chuck.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you need to be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times till you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a stable and mild action.
When the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to end up.

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