Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame enables you to alter the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.
There have actually been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more sophisticated versions which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is produced via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great basic function size for little scale jobs, however the option is down to personal choice.
Saw piercing is likely to be one of the very first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of a simple sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the principle of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our objective is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper course to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very great. The table below includes all the info you will need to choose the correct blade for the metal in question:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Advised gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
You will not require to purchase every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine need to be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use frequently.
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is needed. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for entirely that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work firmly assisting to guarantee an accurate result each time.
Starting to Saw:.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly quickly so its suggested to buy multiples of the sizes you use most frequently.
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Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is created with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is perfect for a newbie.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some new advancements in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more sophisticated variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is produced through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to extremely great. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood handle should face you and the blade secures need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp completion outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to flex, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for a distinct ping to show the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the process once again till its. (Failure to secure your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
The drill keeps moving around and will not discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small dent to direct the drill. Also make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is utilized to scribe styles onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
My arm is harming: Check your seating position is right and attempt to unwind. Also dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply guiding it so let the blade will do the work.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a flexible shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a big range of different accessories consisting of drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automatic centre punches which dont require a hammer and instead have a push button action.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to force the blade.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability prior to you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively use more pressure if it does not seem cutting. They are likewise vulnerable to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Defining and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal should be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass however with 2 points). Copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical if you desire to move a more complicated style onto metal. Then before moving to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, just stop and allow the tools to cool off.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to ease the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly regular and practise makes perfect. Check the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the correct blade size/metal mix.
Tools for Piercing: There are several ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is similar. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and completely vertical, the most important thing to keep in mind. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit firmly, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your significant line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help relieve the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and try to maintain a steady and gentle action.
Once the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to end up.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste product to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to use, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start gradually ensuring the drill bit has actually discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but continuous pressure till all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is right.
Saw out your shape.
Once sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle again.
Submit to end up.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works utilizing a handle at the top which is lowered and drew back up to turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.