A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Sawing

When purchasing your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a fixed design, another decision you require to make. An adjustable frame enables you to change the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a set style will only take basic size blades as they are sold.

Many of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, many find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), begin you off on the proper path to successful sawing every time.

There have been some new advancements in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a range of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the stress is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a great general purpose size for small scale jobs, but the choice is down to personal choice.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and be available in a selection of grades which vary from extremely coarse to exceptionally great. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the details you will need to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Suggested gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

You will not need to acquire every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you buy more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize usually.

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Setting up a blade into a saw:

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood manage must face you and the blade clamps should be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push gently against the handle with your chest which will trigger the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to protect your blade with the ideal tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you start to saw).

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some kind of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers use spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally use more pressure if it doesnt seem cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected correctly in the chuck.

Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.

When your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the correct drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a gentle but constant pressure till all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making certain the tension is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage again when sawing is complete.
Submit to end up.

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly typical and practise makes ideal. However, examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are using the right blade size/metal mix.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your marked line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a number of times up until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to preserve a gentle and consistent action.
As soon as the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or merely bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to finish.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work securely assisting to guarantee an exact outcome each time.

Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow suggestion. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny dent to direct the drill. Guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is fully upright.

Why Pierce? When you require access to an area which would otherwise be difficult or hard to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.

Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is likewise possible to get automated centre punches which do not require a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge variety of different attachments including drill bits.

Troubleshooting:.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some brand-new advancements in frame design over the previous few years and it is now possible to buy more advanced variations which create the stress in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from really coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and try to unwind. Likewise do not be lured to require the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Conserve this for later.

Piercing.

Starting to Saw:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a standard hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is easy to control and is ideal for a beginner.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a small amount of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, merely stop and allow the tools to cool down.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.

Tools for Piercing: There are several methods to drill a hole. You can use hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the same. The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit upright and entirely vertical. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it completely vertical. Chucks are either fully adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, meaning you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.

Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its a good idea to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.

Marking out and determining: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be plainly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points). If you wish to transfer a more intricate style onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Then before moving to the metal surface, rub it over lightly with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will appear the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. Eliminate the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber as soon as you have actually re-traced the design onto the metal.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a manage at the top which is lowered and drew back as much as rotate the chuck at the idea. This requires both hands to utilize effectively.

Fixing:.

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