There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to acquire more innovative versions which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can likewise be turned 45 degrees which facilitates sawing into tough areas.
Another choice you need to make when buying your frame is whether you want an adjustable or a set style. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate damaged blades where as a fixed design will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they vary in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the first significant tasks you try as a jeweller. It is the primary step in the transformation of an easy sheet of metal into something entirely different and holds endless possibilities. Most of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little temperamental at first, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to help you with both tools and method, which will, (in addition to some persistence and practice), start you off on the correct course to effective sawing each time.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to very fine. Blades are identified by the number of teeth per cm so for instance the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general rule, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will require to suffice and vice versa. The table listed below includes all the info you will require to pick the appropriate blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Suggested gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Up to 0.4
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
You will not need to purchase every grade of saw blade; a fundamental selection of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly appropriate. Ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use most frequently.
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, taking care not to require the blade.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.
Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.
The most crucial thing to remember when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will require to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.
Marking out and determining: Before starting to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which resemble a compass but with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complicated design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as typical. Before transferring to the metal surface area, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky film is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks developed when you re-trace. As soon as you have actually re-traced the style onto the metal, remove the tracing paper and discuss the pencil lines with a scriber.
The drill keeps moving and wont discover its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a small damage to guide the drill. Make sure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, make sure the drill itself is totally upright.
Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow pointer and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Once your design is scribed onto the metal, identify a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making sure it is grasped securely.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and push down with a constant however mild pressure up until all the method through..
Now, reverse your saw blade at the clamp nearest the deal with and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade ensuring the stress is proper.
Saw out your shape.
Eliminate the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again once sawing is total.
File to end up.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden manage ought to face you and the blade clamps need to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten up with pliers as this damages the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the second wing-nut to secure the blade.
Release the frame and check the tension of the blade by plucking it. You are searching for an unique ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you dont hear the ping merely undo and repeat the process again till its right. (Failure to protect your blade with the right tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont despair this is perfectly normal and practise makes perfect. Nevertheless, inspect the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.
Starting to Saw:.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some type of lubricant to relieve the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can likewise use beeswax. Simply run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Save this for later on.
Why Pierce? When you need access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or difficult to reach e.g. the centre of a circle, piercing is required. By drilling a little hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, instead of the outdoors in.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Eliminate the saw and repeat a couple of times up until you have a small indent to assist the blade.
Now start to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the down motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having problem getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to assist relieve the movement.
Saw on the outside of your significant line and attempt to preserve a gentle and constant action.
As soon as the cutting is total, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or simply bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we instinctively apply more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have been some new advancements in frame design over the past few years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which develop the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the stress is developed via a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outdoors in.
Scriber: A scriber is a fine marking tool with a long and narrow tip. It is used to scribe designs onto metal and can be used to mark the positions for drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is used for solely that function. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work securely assisting to make sure an accurate result every time.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to unwind. Dont be tempted to require the saw, you are just assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Drill bits: The most typical type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when rotated in a clockwise direction. They are made from a range of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its a good idea to purchase multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft attached to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be used with a substantial variety of different attachments including drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back approximately turn the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to use successfully.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Stopping working that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool off.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw tilted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so examine their suitability before you purchase.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the very same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a wide variety of devices. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.