Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.
Saw piercing is likely to be among the very first significant jobs you try as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the change of a simple sheet of metal into something entirely various and holds unlimited possibilities. Although the majority of us recognize with the idea of sawing wood, lots of discover metal a little unstable in the beginning, which is why we have created this guide. Our goal is to help you with both tools and technique, which will, (in addition to some perseverance and practice), start you off on the correct path to successful sawing whenever.
Another choice you need to make when purchasing your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed style. An adjustable frame allows you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed style will only take standard size blades as they are sold.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous few years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is produced via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough locations.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which range from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the information you will need to choose the right blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
You will not need to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be perfectly adequate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize frequently.
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 8/0
As much as 0.4
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which contains the chuck. It is controlled by a foot pedal and can be utilized with a huge series of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow pointer used in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which do not need a hammer and rather have a push button action.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to gently turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down using a little quantity of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A strong base is integrated with a movable chuck installed on a column, which is controlled by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely helping to guarantee an exact outcome every time.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor included within the hand piece and either run off of the power supply or can be charged up to use cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be utilized with a large range of devices. Rotary hand drills can be used in conjunction with a drill stand to ensure vertical drilling.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw must be held in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you must be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Get rid of the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to assist the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can apply some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help ease the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and attempt to maintain a gentle and steady action.
Once the cutting is complete, undo the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame down to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
File the rough edge to complete.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long tip. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is perfectly typical and practise makes perfect. Check the tension of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the right blade size/metal combination.
The drill keeps moving and will not find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position plainly with a tiny damage to assist the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted properly into the chuck, it may not be directly. Above all, ensure the drill itself is completely upright.
Beginning to Saw:.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in style to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is created via a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from very coarse to extremely great. By drilling a little hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outside in.
Why Pierce? Piercing is needed when you require access to an area which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you provide access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, permitting you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
As soon as your design is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to refer the saw blade you mean to use, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making sure the drill bit has discovered its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and press down with a mild however continuous pressure until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. When through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
Remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the deal with again once sawing is complete.
File to end up.
Conserve this for later.
The most important thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either completely adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a traditional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has a basic twisting mechanism which is developed with a pull/push movement using a wood baton and a piece of string. It is easy to manage and is perfect for a beginner.
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted a little forward using long, smooth strokes.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a range of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt remarkably rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you utilize most frequently.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it might be due to the fact that it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are harder than others so check their suitability prior to you purchase.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to alleviate the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, however you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end furthest away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be tempted to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push carefully against the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. You are looking for an unique ping to reveal the tension is proper. If you do not hear the ping merely reverse and duplicate the procedure again up until its right. (Failure to secure your blade with the ideal tension will lead to it breaking as soon as you begin to saw).
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more quickly, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Marking out and measuring: Before starting to saw, your metal needs to be clearly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points).
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring filled drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pushed down and pulled back as much as turn the chuck at the pointer. This needs both hands to use effectively.
My arm is hurting: Check your seating position is proper and attempt to relax. Dont be lured to force the saw, you are simply directing it so let the blade will do the work.