A Guide to Sawing & Piercing

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Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in design to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. The size of the saw is determined by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch.

Another decision you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a fixed design. An adjustable frame permits you to modify the size to accommodate broken blades where as a set design will only take standard size blades as they are offered.

There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to purchase more advanced versions which create the stress in the saw blade for you. One such style is from a company called Knew Concepts who have a variety of lightweight aluminium frames which do not flex. Rather the stress is developed through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which enables a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These specific clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into tough areas.

Sawing

Saw piercing is likely to be one of the first significant tasks you attempt as a jeweller. It is the initial step in the transformation of a basic sheet of metal into something completely various and holds endless possibilities. Many of us are familiar with the idea of sawing wood, numerous find metal a little temperamental at initially, which is why we have put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the appropriate path to successful sawing whenever.

Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a choice of grades which vary from extremely coarse to very fine. Blades are defined by the variety of teeth per cm so for example the coarsest would be grade 4 which has 15 teeth per cm and the finest is grade 8/0 which has 30 teeth per cm. As a general guideline, the thicker the metal, the coarser the blade you will need to cut it and vice versa. The table below contains all the details you will require to select the correct blade for the metal in question:

Saw blade Grade

Blade Thickness mm

Teeth per CM

Drill Size mm

Advised gauge Of metal mm

Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.18
32
0.4
0.35 to 0.5

Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.22
26.5
0.5
0.5 to 0.6

Saw blade Grade 1
0.3
19
0.7
0.8 to 1.0

Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.26
22
0.55
0.6 to 0.8

Saw blade Grade 2
0.34
17.5
0.7
0.9 to 1.1

Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.28
20.5
0.6
0.6 to 0.95

Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.2
28
0.4
0.4 to 0.55

Saw blade Grade 4
0.38
15
0.8
1.0 to 1.3

Saw blade Grade 3
0.36
16
0.8
0.9 to 1.2

Saw blade Grade 8/0
0.17
30
0.3
As much as 0.4

You will not require to buy every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine must be completely appropriate. However, guarantee you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will utilize most often.

Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.24
23.5
0.5
0.6 to 0.7

Installing a blade into a saw:

My saw blades keep breaking: Dont anguish this is perfectly normal and practise makes ideal. However, check the stress of your blade for slackness and ensure you are utilizing the proper blade size/metal combination.

Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has actually a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which consists of the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big series of various accessories including drill bits.

The most essential thing to keep in mind when drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit totally vertical and upright. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, implying you will need to alternate to accommodate various drill bits.

Piercing a gain access to hole for sawing:.

Starting to Saw:.

Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be used with one hand. It has an easy twisting system which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wooden baton and a piece of string. It is simple to control and is ideal for a novice.

Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wood deal with need to face you and the blade clamps ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and clamp the end outermost away into your frame using the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten up with pliers as this deteriorates the screw thread).
Then push carefully versus the manage with your chest which will trigger the frame to flex, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to secure the blade.
Launch the frame and inspect the tension of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best stress will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).

The drill keeps moving around and wont find its position: Make sure you have actually marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to direct the drill. Likewise guarantee the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be directly. Above all, guarantee the drill itself is completely upright.

Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the supreme drilling tool and is utilized for solely that purpose. A durable base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can facilitate a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure a precise outcome whenever.

Marking out and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal should be plainly marked and determined so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal utilizing a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass but with two points).

Sawing curves: Curves require much shorter strokes and need an upright sawing position. You need to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to force the blade.

My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to reduce the sawing motion. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can likewise utilize beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.

Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long idea. It is utilized to scribe designs onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.

My arm is harming: Check your seating position is appropriate and attempt to unwind. Dont be lured to require the saw, you are just directing it so let the blade will do the work.

Save this for later on.

The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and enable the tools to cool down.

Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you need access to a location which would otherwise be challenging or impossible to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.

Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. There have been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which develop the stress in the saw blade for you. Rather the stress is created through a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which allows a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are sold in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you offer access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.

Seat yourself at the bench and hold the work in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw ought to be kept in a vertical position with the blade dealing with forward, and you should be seated so that your workspace is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the outside of your marked line and gently draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a number of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now start to carefully move the saw up and down keeping in mind that the blade cuts on the downward motion and merely re-positions on the upward. If you are having difficulty getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is sold in blocks, to help alleviate the movement.
Saw on the exterior of your marked line and try to maintain a stable and gentle action.
When the cutting is complete, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to eliminate it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.

Troubleshooting:.

Piercing.

Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor contained within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose performance of a pendant drill and can be used with a broad variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be used in combination with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.

Once your design is scribed onto the metal, recognize a position within the waste material to drill an ideal hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the right drill size to correspond with the saw blade you plan to utilize, (please refer to chart) and insert into the chuck ensuring it is gripped firmly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has actually found its position. As soon as in position increase the speed and lower with a mild but constant pressure up until all the way through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the manage and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the tension is appropriate.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is complete, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the handle once again.
Submit to finish.

My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we intuitively use more pressure if it doesnt appear to be cutting. They are likewise prone to damages if not secured properly in the chuck.

Fixing:.

My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit will not bite it may be because it is blunt or that the metal you are using is too tough for that specific type of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.

Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a little spring loaded drill, which works using a handle at the top which is pressed down and drew back as much as turn the chuck at the suggestion. This needs both hands to utilize effectively.

Centre punch: A centre punch is likewise a steel marker with a sharp point similar to a scriber. It is and has a shallow idea utilized in conjunction with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automatic centre punches which dont need a hammer and rather have a push button action.

Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best taken on with the saw slanted somewhat forward using long, smooth strokes.

Drill bits: The most common kind of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened products and variety in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can become blunt surprisingly rapidly so its recommended to buy multiples of the sizes you use most regularly.

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