Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is comparable in design to a small fretsaw and is made from springy steel which holds the blade in position under tension. Blades are held in place by wing-nut clamps at either end of the saw which are tightened up by hand. The size of the saw is dictated by the depth from the blade to the back of the frame and they range in size from 3 inch to 6 inch. A 3 inch frame is a good basic purpose size for small scale jobs, however the option is down to individual preference.
There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame style over the past couple of years and it is now possible to acquire advanced variations which create the tension in the saw blade for you. One such design is from a business called Knew Concepts who have a variety of light-weight aluminium frames which do not flex. Instead the tension is created through a cam-lever system within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a fast release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. These particular clamps can also be turned 45 degrees which helps with sawing into challenging areas.
Most of us are familiar with the concept of sawing wood, lots of find metal a little unstable at first, which is why we have actually put together this guide. Our aim is to assist you with both tools and strategy, which will, (in addition to some patience and practice), begin you off on the right path to successful sawing every time.
Another choice you require to make when acquiring your frame is whether you desire an adjustable or a set design. An adjustable frame permits you to change the size to accommodate broken blades where as a fixed design will only take basic size blades as they are offered.
Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in packages of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which vary from very coarse to extremely fine. The table below consists of all the information you will need to select the correct blade for the metal in concern:
Saw blade Grade
Blade Thickness mm
Teeth per CM
Drill Size mm
Recommended gauge Of metal mm
Saw blade Grade 1
0.8 to 1.0
Saw blade Grade 4/0
0.5 to 0.6
Saw blade Grade 3
0.9 to 1.2
Saw blade Grade 8/0
Saw blade Grade 2
0.9 to 1.1
Saw blade Grade 4
1.0 to 1.3
Saw blade Grade 6/0
0.35 to 0.5
Saw blade Grade 3/0
0.6 to 0.7
Saw blade Grade 5/0
0.4 to 0.55
Saw blade Grade 1/0
0.6 to 0.95
You will not require to acquire every grade of saw blade; a basic choice of coarse, medium and fine ought to be perfectly sufficient. However, ensure you purchase more of the medium grade (2/0 or 1/0) as these are what you will use usually.
Saw blade Grade 2/0
0.6 to 0.8
Setting up a blade into a saw:
Beginning to Saw:.
Rotary Hand Drill: Rotary hand drills have the motor consisted of within the hand piece and either run of the power supply or can be charged up to utilize cordless. They have the same multi-purpose functionality of a pendant drill and can be used with a wide variety of accessories. Rotary hand drills can be utilized in conjunction with a drill stand to guarantee vertical drilling.
Scriber: A scriber is a great marking tool with a narrow and long pointer. It is used to scribe styles onto metal and can be utilized to mark the positions for drilling.
Bench Mounted Pillar Drill: This is the ultimate drilling tool and is utilized for exclusively that purpose. A sturdy base is integrated with a movable chuck mounted on a column, which is managed by a lever at the side. The base can assist in a clamp to hold work safely assisting to make sure an exact result every time.
Drill bits: The most common type of drill bits are twist drills which cut when turned in a clockwise instructions. They are made from a variety of toughened materials and range in size from 0.3 mm upwards. Drills can end up being blunt surprisingly quickly so its advisable to purchase multiples of the sizes you utilize most regularly.
Bow drill: A bow drill is a conventional hand drill which can be utilized with one hand. It has an easy twisting mechanism which is produced with a pull/push movement utilizing a wood baton and a piece of string. It is simple to manage and is ideal for a newbie.
Tools for Piercing: There are various ways to drill a hole. You can utilize hand tools or mechanised tools; the concept is much the exact same. When drilling a hole is to keep your drill bit entirely vertical and upright, the most essential thing to remember. This is why all drilling tools have an adjustable chuck to grip the drill bit securely, whilst keeping it totally vertical. Chucks are either totally adjustable to take all sizes of drill or interchangeable, suggesting you will require to alternate to accommodate different drill bits.
Archimedian Hand Drill: This is a small spring loaded drill, which works using a manage at the top which is pressed down and pulled back up to rotate the chuck at the tip. This requires both hands to utilize efficiently.
The drill is getting too hot: If the drill overheats you can cool it down utilizing a percentage of water or an oil based drilling coolant. Failing that, simply stop and permit the tools to cool down.
Defining and measuring: Before beginning to saw, your metal must be clearly significant and measured so you have a guide to work to. Lines can be scribed onto metal using a scriber or a set of dividers (which are similar to a compass however with 2 points). If you wish to transfer a more complex design onto metal, copy it onto tracing paper and cover the reverse with graphite as normal. Prior to moving to the metal surface, rub it over gently with Plasticine so that a sticky movie is left, which will reveal up the pencil marks produced when you re-trace. Remove the tracing paper and go over the pencil lines with a scriber once you have re-traced the design onto the metal.
Pendant Drill: A pendant motor is a multi-purpose, mechanised tool which has a suspended motor and a versatile shaft connected to a hand piece, which includes the chuck. It is managed by a foot pedal and can be used with a big variety of various accessories consisting of drill bits.
Saw frames: A jewellers saw frame is similar in style to a little fretsaw and is made of springy steel which holds the blade in position under stress. There have actually been some brand-new developments in frame design over the previous couple of years and it is now possible to buy more innovative variations which produce the tension in the saw blade for you. Instead the tension is produced by means of a cam-lever mechanism within the blade clamp, which makes it possible for a quick release and positioning of the blade with the flick of a lever. Saw blades: Blades for a jewellers piercing saw are offered in bundles of 12, or by the gross (144) and come in a selection of grades which range from extremely coarse to exceptionally fine. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, enabling you to saw from the within out, rather than the outdoors in.
Centre punch: A centre punch is also a steel marker with a sharp point comparable to a scriber. It has a shallow tip and is utilized in combination with a hammer to mark the position for subsequent drill holes. It is also possible to get automated centre punches which dont need a hammer and instead have a push button action.
The drill keeps moving around and wont discover its position: Make sure you have marked the drilling position clearly with a tiny damage to guide the drill. Ensure the drill is fitted correctly into the chuck, it might not be straight. Above all, ensure the drill itself is totally upright.
Seat yourself at the bench and hold the operate in position on the bench peg, holding the saw in your opposite hand.
Your saw should be kept in a vertical position with the blade facing forward, and you ought to be seated so that your working location is around mid-chest height.
Position the blade on the exterior of your significant line and carefully draw the blade down. Remove the saw and repeat a couple of times until you have a little indent to guide the blade.
Now begin to gently move the saw up and down bearing in mind that the blade cuts on the down movement and simply re-positions on the upward. If you are having trouble getting the blade to bite you can use some beeswax which is offered in blocks, to help reduce the motion.
Saw on the outside of your marked line and attempt to maintain a mild and stable action.
As soon as the cutting is total, reverse the clamp at the top of the saw and pull the frame to remove it from the work, or just bring it back along the cutting line if that is possible.
Submit the rough edge to finish.
Sawing curves: Curves call for much shorter strokes and require an upright sawing position. You require to carefully turn the saw along the curve with each cut, making sure not to require the blade.
My arm is injuring: Check your seating position is correct and attempt to relax. Also do not be tempted to require the saw, you are simply assisting it so let the blade will do the work.
Sit at your bench with your saw frame supported in between your chest and the edge of the bench or the V of your bench peg. The wooden handle must face you and the blade secures ought to be at the top of the frame.
Position your blade with the teeth at the top, pointing towards you and secure completion outermost away into your frame utilizing the wing-nut. (Do not be lured to tighten with pliers as this compromises the screw thread).
Push gently versus the handle with your chest which will cause the frame to bend, and tighten up the 2nd wing-nut to protect the blade.
Launch the frame and examine the stress of the blade by plucking it. (Failure to secure your blade with the best tension will result in it breaking as quickly as you begin to saw).
Sawing straight lines: Straight lines are best tackled with the saw slanted somewhat forward utilizing long, smooth strokes.
Save this for later on.
My saw blades keep sticking: Apply some form of lube to ease the sawing movement. Some jewellers utilize spittle, but you can also use beeswax. Just run it along the blade and continue to saw.
Piercing an access hole for sawing:.
As soon as your style is scribed onto the metal, determine a position within the waste material to drill an appropriate hole.
Mark the position with a scriber or centre punch.
Select the proper drill size to correspond with the saw blade you mean to utilize, (please describe chart) and insert into the chuck making certain it is grasped tightly.
Drill the hole. Start slowly making certain the drill bit has discovered its position. When in position increase the speed and lower with a gentle however constant pressure up until all the method through..
Now, undo your saw blade at the clamp nearest the handle and thread the blade through the hole from the top. As soon as through, re-clamp your blade making sure the stress is correct.
Saw out your shape.
As soon as sawing is total, remove the saw by un-clamping the blade nearest the manage once again.
Submit to end up.
My drill isnt cutting: If the drill bit wont bite it may be since it is blunt or that the metal you are utilizing is too difficult for that particular kind of drill. Some drills are tougher than others so check their suitability before you buy.
My drills keep breaking: A blunt drill bit will break more easily, as we naturally apply more pressure if it does not appear to be cutting. They are also susceptible to damages if not protected properly in the chuck.
Why Pierce? Piercing is required when you require access to a location which would otherwise be impossible or tough to reach e.g. the centre of a circle. By drilling a small hole you supply access to the saw blade which can then be fed through and re-clamped into the frame, allowing you to saw from the inside out, rather than the outside in.
My saw blades keep breaking: Dont misery this is completely normal and practise makes ideal. Examine the stress of your blade for slackness and make sure you are utilizing the appropriate blade size/metal combination.